Historic Governor’s Island in New York Harbor is now open to the public-and a lot is accessible to everyone.
By William Clarke
Before I even knew I had multiple sclerosis, I worked as a futures trader in an office high above the city streets that had a fantastic view of lower Manhattan. I usually didn’t pay much attention to it. But sometimes I would stare at Governor’s Island, a mysterious piece of land owned by the federal government that once served as a military base and then became a Coast Guard station and wonder what it was like. Long ago, the island had become a ghost town, its residential buildings and churches decaying from disuse.
In 2003, the US government sold Governor’s Island to New York City for $1, and plans were begun to preserve the buildings and turn part of the island into a National Monument visitable by the public part of the year.
Having retired from business in 1997, I recently got a chance to find out for myself firsthand what was on Governor’s Island.
Tourist in My Hometown
It was a warm day in early June. The sun was golden in its morning light, and a soft, slightly cool breeze wafted by. A beautifully restored schooner lazily lumbered down the East River with its sails gently puffed. I jotted down a day’s itinerary in my MS-influenced scrawl.
I patiently waited at the terminal on 10 South Street for the Governor’s Island Ferry. The steel and iron pier has recently been painted black in glossy oil paint. The terminal building, painted a mustard color with grayish blue accents, is a pleasant waiting area for the next ferry. I was impressed by the extent of accessibility provided and was comfortable while boarding the ship.
The ferry was filled with tourists; numerous accents and languages met my ears. Frankly, I felt like a tourist in my own town. “I love New York!” proclaimed a woman wearing a pale yellow shawl around her neck in a thick Russian accent.
Soon we were underway on our short cruise to the island. I found the crew, in navy blue uniforms, to be helpful. They handed out and explained pamphlets highlighting the day’s events. The bright yellow Water Taxis-another ferry sailing here- cruise to their docks on the other side of the isle. They’re fast, fun and accessible, but not cheap (for more information on pricing and where to catch them, visit www.nywatertaxi.com). The Governors Island Ferry trips, on the other hand, along with the walking tours and historical exhibits, are all free.
The food I found on the island was simple: red-hot hot dogs, knishes and other fast food. They were sold by several pushcart style vendors at various locations on the island. There’s also an aluminum-clad lunch truck selling fast food. There’s talk of a sit down eatery in the future.
Close by the ferry terminal, there was a great view of lower Manhattan as you’ve probably never seen it before. This is a good place for a snapshot.
History Comes Alive
After lunch, Jenny, a friendly young 20-something park ranger in an olive uniform, told me where the action was. “Up this hill behind me there is a cool place,” she assured me. I drove my power chair uphill through the rough terrain to a field that was surrounded by chestnut trees. This was where the antique weapons demonstration was taking place.
Tip: If you’re in a wheelchair, a power chair is recommended for this trip. You’ll spend less time getting around and you won’t tire as easily.
Back to the demo: several gray-bearded men wearing shined boots and neatly pressed and brightly polished Civil War uniforms removed the bayonets from their rifles. Multiple reflections danced around as each solider readied his weapon for the demonstration. A moment of silence followed. All talking abruptly came to a halt as speakers blurted out “The Battle Hymn of the Republic…”
Then the captain repeatedly yelled “Fire!”
Each time, multiple popping sounds followed. Sparks flew and a puff of white smoke emitted from each weapon pointed skyward. Startled creatures of all sizes ran for cover. Birds stopped singing and fluttered as they took off amid the disturbance. The shots echoed in the spring setting. The field became engulfed with the acrid aroma of spent gunpowder. Meanwhile, each soldier was busy after each shot as he prepared his firearm for the next shot. Smoke filled the air. Thank goodness they were only blanks!
It was time I continued my visit.
Now I approached Fort Jay. A centuries old statue sits atop the red sandstone archway entrance of the fort. It’s badly weathered. The cannon it proudly displays is pitted and its union flags are weathered. It certainly needs some attention. Inside the fort, you can visit the officers’ quarters and the barracks enlisted men used until 1996. As you tour the island it can really feel like you’ve gone back to Civil War times. All this-only yards from Manhattan!
Governor’s Island is 173 acres and it contains 62 historic buildings. One of them is a gray sandstone brick castle-like Episcopalian church. Shutters partly cover the stained glass windows located on the sides. It is The Chapel of Cornelius the Centurion. Another building is Our Lady Star of the Sea Roman Catholic church.
A Park and a Prison
Then there’s Nolan Park. The park has a lush carpeting of neatly manicured bright greenery. It is dotted with large evergreens and chestnut trees. Another popular attraction is the modest two-story red brick Governor’s House. The brown brick Admiral’s House, has tall shiny white columns. A black cast-iron cannon is on each side of the front gravel walk. Trees shade the area. This building is grander than the governors’ residence. There are several wooden residences on the island; all have their clapboards painted in army-issue yellow. Most of them are closed to the public.
The other fortification on the island is Castle William, built of multihued red brick with black cast-iron bars in the slot openings of the bricks. These are lookout locations over New York Harbor. The walls are capped with slate tiles. The interior is where Confederate prisoners of war were held.
Unfortunately, accessible van tours of the island have been discontinued. A blue and gold tram (not wheelchair-accessible) follows a route that covers most of the historical portion of the island. Walking tours (Wed. thru Sun.) given by Park Rangers and volunteers. Tickets are available at the ferry terminal.
Many people disabled or not, out of towners or native New Yorkers, will enjoy this affordable day trip.
For more information about Governor’s Island, visit www.govisland.com.
William Clarke writes Action’s Managing Your Assets Column.
